I don't even know where to start but I guess chronologically is the best route so I'll start with where I left off yesterday. You might remember that we’d all had a long nap after our tour of St. Peter's basilica, waking up thirsty and wanting a little walk to loosen up stiff muscles, so we ambled down to our local spot for virgin mojitos for three of us and a limoncello spritz for Carm. We ordered a big bottle of acqua frizzante so we could stretch out our drinks but more importantly to rehydrate! We’ve gotten used to drinking this sparkling refreshment at every meal! They remembered us from when we were there two days ago which is amazing in this city of millions of tourists. The waitress would remember Carm who chatted her up and left a big tip!
Sitting just out of the crowds, watching the people pass was a nice transition to our next event - and event is the right word! We had reservations at Bistro 64, a Michelin star restaurant that was featured on Stanley Tucci's program about Italy. They serve a fusion of Japanese and Italian that was brilliantly executed. After a confusing few minutes of trying to figure out where the Uber was picking us up in the maze of tiny streets and alleys around our apartment we made it on time. It was way off the beaten path in a residential area, an hours walk from ‘home’ - too far to walk after such an exertion filled day!.
We chose the 8 course tasting menu, sharing the wine pairings between couples. Seven glasses of wine each seemed over ambitious, even though they weren't full glasses. As it was, I was a bit tipsy before the meal ended.
It was a tiny, austere restaurant with personal service. We had acqua frizzante which the waiter kept replacing with a fresh, cold carafe. Each course was presented and explained - I should have taken notes as I can't remember the details! The portions were small, but when it all added up, perfectly proportioned to feel satiated without being grossly overfull. The flavours were rich and complex so the small portions were perfect, each course leaving us wanting more. Sometimes a whole dish of something is too much so by the end of the meal I feel sick and slightly grossed out, but not the case here!
We started with breadsticks paired with a smokey tomato pate and bbq'd olives.
Next up was a spread of appetiser type things which I have no hope of explaining but know that each bite was an experience. The one that sticks in my mind was a tiny meringue filled with gorgonzola cheese. OMG.
After that came a wonderful black lentil dish spooned over a nutty hazelnut cream. The lentils were cooked in a perpetual broth that they'd been nurturing since 2023. Who knew that the lowly lentil could be elevated to the sublime!
Next was something that I can't remember the details of, but it had tiny beet stars and a creamy meat or maybe vegetable. It might have had some wasabi horseradish. Again - a treat for the taste buds.
Next was pasta made with chard and who knows what else. Green is good! Pasta was perfectly al'dente.
The next pasta had a creamy sauce rich with anchovies and cream. OMG - heaven! But again, a whole plate would have been overwhelming but a few bites was perfect.
Cod was next on the menu - perfectly cooked and still firm. It was dusted with sumac, a traditional mediterranean herb and came with a drizzle of thick chicken broth.
The meat course ended the savoury. It was a tiny veal cutlet with some sort of sauce that we all soaked up with the excellent bread that was provided with the meal. Actually, we used the bread to wipe our plates of every molecule of flavour for each course!
The first dessert was a cleanser to transition the palate from savoury to sweet. The first bite was super salty which shocked the tastebuds, but then the cream and amaretto was scooped with each bite of espresso granata making the change from salty to sweet brilliantly.
Finally a few bites for dessert. Something with white chocolate, a sponge type cake, a chocolate and hazelnut ball, ending with a buttery pastry.
Each course was accompanied with a carefully selected wine - the combinations danced on our tastebuds, elevating each bite perfectly.
It was a three and a half hour event that will nurture our souls for the ages! What a meal!
Thanks to June for all the food photos!
Ciao!
Awesome!
“everything everywhere!”
“taste buds”
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